Destinations
In Search of the Spirit Bear: Exploring the Heart of Kitasoo / Xai’xais Territory
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We came looking for the Spirit Bear, but what we found in the Great Bear Rainforest was something much more meaningful. In Kitasoo/Xai’xais Territory, where ancient trees stand watch over salmon streams and traditions run deep, every moment invites you to see the world differently. A visit to Spirit Bear Lodge isn’t just about wildlife—it’s about connection, purpose, and being present in a place that still remembers its stories.
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This feature is presented in partnership with Destination Indigenous. The people, activities and locations described were experienced in person by a Go Canada team and the words and pictures below reflect our authentic experiences with Spirit Bear Lodge in the Great Bear Rainforest in British Columbia.
The outboard quieted, leaving only the whisper of water against the zodiac’s hull and the sigh of cedar boughs overhead. We floated within a secluded lake system of the Great Bear Rainforest, where the stillness made every sound sharper: the dip of a paddle, the breeze in the cedars, the distant call of a raven. By then, we had already witnessed the thunder of grizzlies turning river stones and the haunting exhale of humpbacks rising offshore, yet the Spirit Bear remained just out of reach, something we still hadn’t seen.
Fresh salmon flickered in the stream, a sign this bend might draw the fabled moksgm’ol. The day unfolded in reverent silence before a soft rustle broke the stillness. From the emerald undergrowth emerged a pale bear, its coat almost glowing against the green. It surely knew we were there, yet moved with calm indifference, pausing to feed on berries heavy with rain. For the rest of the afternoon, we followed quietly, careful not to disturb the moment.
The skeptic in me had once wondered what made this bear so extraordinary — a black bear with a recessive gene, nothing more. But in that moment, watching it vanish into the rainforest light, I understood. This wasn’t just wildlife viewing. It felt like something spiritual, a quiet reminder that the land still carries stories, and sometimes, if you’re patient, it shares one with you.
THE LIVING HEART OF KITASOO/XAI’XAIS TERRITORY
This remote corner of coastal British Columbia — home to the Kitasoo/Xai’xais Nation — is one of the most biodiverse places on Earth. Towering red cedars and Sitka spruce rise above salmon-rich rivers that feed an entire ecosystem of grizzlies, wolves, eagles, humpbacks, and orcas.
To the Kitasoo/Xai’xais people, the land and sea are not separate realms but one living system. “Taking care of our lands and waters is so important,” says Roxanne Robinson, Assistant Manager at Spirit Bear Lodge. “We live in a place that’s really special — people can come and see our territory untouched.”
Roxanne is a proud member of the Nation, raised in Klemtu, where she still lives with her husband and children. Her leadership at the lodge is guided by deep cultural grounding and a passion for language revitalization.
Situated along the oceanfront in Klemtu, Spirit Bear Lodge is a The Original Original (TOO)-accredited member, a designation that highlights Indigenous tourism experiences led by local communities and rooted in culture. The lodge embodies those principles, balancing ecological stewardship, cultural education, and sustainable travel in one of the planet’s most pristine regions.
FROM HUMBLE BEGINNINGS TO GLOBAL RECOGNITION
Spirit Bear Lodge began humbly, recalls Heather Robinson, also a member of the Kitasoo/Xai’xais Nation and a lifelong resident of Klemtu who now serves as Lead Guide. “It all started as a little walking tour. When the ferry came in, we’d wait at the dock and ask people if they wanted to go for a walk through town. It would end with some traditional food and dancing.”
That small initiative sparked something bigger. “One day a group told us they were doing bear viewing in our territory — and that’s when we decided we should be the ones doing it ourselves. That’s how Spirit Bear Lodge began.”
Today, the lodge is known around the world as a true expression of Indigenous-led tourism, built from the community up. It employs dozens of Indigenous locals in guiding, skippering, housekeeping, and leadership roles. “I started out as a youth guide, and now I’m the Assistant Manager,” Roxanne reflects. “We’ve created opportunities for our people — leadership roles that give us purpose.”
For Heather, the lodge represents far more than a workplace. “Every season, you see the same group of people come back. It’s become something we’re proud to be part of.”
ENCOUNTERS IN THE GREAT BEAR RAINFOREST
A day with Spirit Bear Lodge begins at dawn, as guests board small boats to explore winding channels and river valleys. Led by local guides, each outing offers a chance to see something unforgettable. Grizzlies fish for salmon in turquoise streams; sea lions bark from rocky islets; orcas and humpbacks breach against a backdrop of ancient rainforest.
Yet nothing compares to the moment the Spirit Bear appears. “It’s something that really brings you back down to earth,” Heather says. “You’re sitting in this beautiful forest and suddenly a white bear walks down the river or out of the trees. It’s a spiritual moment for a lot of people. Even after ten years, it’s still emotional for me every time.”
Visitors are reminded to observe respectfully: to slow down, listen, and be present. “Our interactions with wildlife are always positive,” Heather adds. “We don’t do anything that would affect the bears in a negative way. We try to educate every visitor about what we do and why it matters.”
SUSTAINABILITY AS A WAY OF LIFE
At Spirit Bear Lodge, sustainability reflects Kitasoo/Xai’xais values: a way of life that balances people, wildlife, and the land.
“Spirit Bear Lodge isn’t just respectfully operating within our territory,” Roxanne explains. “It’s helping with research and science, but also bringing real purpose to our people.”
The lodge collaborates with conservation organizations to monitor bear populations and salmon health, while practicing a strict leave-no-trace policy. Renewable energy use, waste management, and ongoing habitat protection are part of everyday operations. “It’s beautiful to see the work that the previous leaders did to protect our territory,” Roxanne adds, “so our starseeds to come can get to see what we’ve grown up with.”
This commitment to stewardship is felt everywhere, from the way guides approach wildlife to the way guests are encouraged to connect meaningfully with the land.
CULTURAL REVITALIZATION AND EDUCATION
Spirit Bear Lodge also plays a vital role in cultural renewal. Tours often begin in the Big House, where visitors learn about Kitasoo/Xai’xais stories, songs, and worldview. “We’ve adjusted our Big House tours to incorporate more culture,” Roxanne says. “It used to be just storytelling — now we include language teaching.”
Language preservation has become a cornerstone of community pride. In Klemtu, students now learn the Xai’xais language from kindergarten through grade twelve — a testament to resilience and resurgence. “We’re on a time crunch to learn and preserve as much as we can,” Roxanne notes, “but there’s a lot of movement for language revitalization.”
For many guests, these cultural experiences — combined with time on the land — create a sense of connection that stays with people long after they leave. “People always expect to see wildlife,” Heather says, “but they leave feeling something much deeper — connected to the land, to our people, and to something spiritual they can’t quite put into words.”
THE SPIRIT OF COMMUNITY
Every aspect of Spirit Bear Lodge ties back to community benefit. Local artists and crafters are invited to showcase their work to guests, creating a direct link between tourism and economic empowerment. The lodge also supports youth mentorship programs and brings school children into the territory to learn firsthand about stewardship.
These initiatives reinforce a shared purpose: to protect, to educate, and to thrive. “Many guests come here to see the Spirit Bear,” Roxanne says, “but they leave with so much more — connection, learning, and an open heart. We challenge guests to put their devices aside and just observe everything around them. It’s more than just a place — it’s a feeling.”
A MODEL FOR AUTHENTIC INDIGENOUS TOURISM
Spirit Bear Lodge has become a leading example of how tourism, when rooted in community values, can strengthen culture instead of diluting it. “I hope we don’t grow Spirit Bear Lodge too big,” Roxanne reflects. “I want to live to see the day when we are 100% Indigenous-owned and 100% Indigenous-operated.”
That vision, rooted in sovereignty, sustainability, and story, is what sets Spirit Bear Lodge apart. It is not simply a destination. It reflects a careful balance: honouring culture, protecting the land, and building a future for the community.
And when the Spirit Bear steps silently from the shadows, you understand. This is more than travel. It’s a homecoming to something sacred.
To learn more about Spirit Bear Lodge and other Indigenous tourism experiences as you plan your next trip, visit Destination Indigenous.
Go Canada Staff
Editorial
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